Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

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TheMightyMadman
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Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

Hi all,

I'm having some issues with a 1982 VIC-20, and this seems to be the best place to ask. I picked it up on eBay in a bundle with a C64. Originally they both outputted a black screen - I managed to fix the C64 by replacing the RAM chips and multiplexers, but the VIC-20 is being more difficult. It's a later model that shares the PSU with the C64.

I don't have a spares board or a working VIC to test each chip, so I've worked through with trial-and-error. I've checked the 5V supply at all chips and it's fine. I've recapped the board to stop any voltage ripples or leaking. I've also put in a new VIC, Kernal ROM, and the two big RAM chips, all of which I have been assured work. I then discovered that the reset line was constantly low, and it turned out the inverter at UB4 was knackered (input (1) from LM555 was 0V, output (2) was 0.13V (should be approx 5V)) so I swapped it out for a new one. I now get this screen on startup.
IMG_0529.JPG
I can't work out what causes this - it's like a garbled 'RAM'-style screen but it starts off with all coloured blocks, then some start to become random characters. I can't find anything on the web with these exact symptoms. I've consulted Ray Carlsen's guides throughout my repairs (http://personalpages.tds.net/~rcarlsen/ ... /vic20.txt), but I think only the power-on reset chip (LM555) sounds like it could be the cause as all other 'garbled' screens seem to give a different result judging by what I can find online. Removing the character ROM has no effect. No chips get particularly hot, aside from the usual suspects (CPU, VIC, ROMs etc). Cartridges don't seem to work (this could be a dirty cartridge port or cartridges).

I've ordered a bipolar LM555 and some 8-pin sockets, but in the meantime I figured I'd look for some advice in case this isn't the cause. Has anyone ever seen anything like this?

Many thanks,

Adam
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

Okay, so it's working now.

This screen certainly looks like a RAM issue, either a RAM chip itself or the RAM reset. But I didn't realise that the VIC-20 has additional RAM chips to the two large ones (U14 & U15). These are 2KB each so make up 4KB, then two 2114 RAM chips (UE1 & UE2) at 0.5KB each make a total of 5KB system memory. Another 2114 RAM chip (0.5KB) is used for screen memory, making a 5.5KB total.

I socketed and replaced the 555 timer IC to no effect. I socketed and replaced the three 2114 chips, also to no effect. I then socketed and replaced the tri-state logic chips UD8 & UE8 (74LS245) and now have a normal startup screen, with no weird colours. I've tested all of my catridges and tapes and they work perfectly, so I've put heat sinks on all of the larger chips and removed the inner RF shield to reduce the thermal stress of the system.

Hopefully this will be able to push someone having similar issues in the right direction.
image1.jpeg
Last edited by TheMightyMadman on Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by orion70 »

Great! Happy for you, another VIC back to life :)
Your second post makes me wonder - I have some spare heat sinks, from the last operation on my Plus/4. Which chips should I put them on? There comes a time, when a lot of VICs are suffering multiple failures due to age (I have five non-working of with severe problems, and only three working at the moment), and I'm not able to solder, so my intervention is limited to some chip switching and heat sinking.
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

Thank you :D It was a tricky one, but it's a good feeling to have it working.

Ah, fair enough! I get all of mine from Retroleum because they look nice and are the perfect size (https://www.retroleum.co.uk/c64-repairs-and-mods). Phil is a really nice guy, and very helpful - he also has lots of other Commodore spares.

Heating and cooling stresses a chip over time, so heat sinking can increase the lifespan of a chip by reducing the maximum temperature and increasing the time it takes to heat up and cool down. It won't repair a chip, but it will prolong the life of a healthy chip.

Most of the chip that you see is just contacts (see below), so the bulk of the thermal paste/adhesive should be placed in the centre (I use adhesive so the sinks don't pop off if I ever need to pull a chip for testing).
An+Integrated+Circuit+(Silicon)+Die.jpg

I've found that the chips that get the hottest in the VIC-20, similarly to the C64, are the CPU, VIC, VIAs, and the ROMs. RAM and the glue logic chips shouldn't get anything more than warm, else you might have a problem. In my VIC-20 I've therefore sinked the following:
- VIC* (under the RF shield. Instead of sinking, I have placed a copper strip between it and the top of the RF shield, using it as a heat sink).
- CPU*
- Both VIAs
- BASIC ROM*
- Kernal ROM*
- Character ROM
*Gets especially hot.

I'll upload some pictures when they're all dry. I hope this helps!
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by orion70 »

It helps a lot, thank you!
TheMightyMadman wrote:Ah, fair enough! I get all of mine from Retroleum because they look nice and are the perfect size (https://www.retroleum.co.uk/c64-repairs-and-mods). Phil is a really nice guy, and very helpful - he also has lots of other Commodore spares.
Nice to know! I had to wait forever to get them from China, plus I had to cut them to the right size.
TheMightyMadman wrote:Most of the chip that you see is just contacts (see below), so the bulk of the thermal paste/adhesive should be placed in the centre (I use adhesive so the sinks don't pop off if I ever need to pull a chip for testing).
This reassures me for the job I did to the Plussy :)
TheMightyMadman wrote:- VIC* (under the RF shield. Instead of sinking, I have placed a copper strip between it and the top of the RF shield, using it as a heat sink).
I completely removed both the RF shield and the aluminum (?) cardboards from all my VIC (kept them in storage though). Do you think I should put them in again?
TheMightyMadman wrote:I'll upload some pictures when they're all dry. I hope this helps!
Yes please, I'll keep an eye to this thread :)
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

I'm glad it's helped out! Thank you, I'll be sure to upload some decent pictures next week.
orion70 wrote:I completely removed both the RF shield and the aluminum (?) cardboards from all my VIC (kept them in storage though). Do you think I should put them in again?
For the cardboard RF shield you're right to keep it out, it serves no purpose other than to reduce the circulation of air inside the VIC-20 and make the heat sinks less effective. As for the metal RF shield over the VIC chip it's personal preference really - if you've got a normal heatsink on it already keep the top off to allow air to get to it, but if you want to keep the lid on to make it look original you can connect a bent copper strip to the lid using thermal adhesive, then stick the other end onto the VIC chip using thermal paste so you can still take the lid off. This uses the RF box as a heat sink instead. It takes a few tries to get the copper bent correctly, in some kind of 'z' shape. I'll put a picture on when mine is all done.
Last edited by TheMightyMadman on Fri Jun 22, 2018 6:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by MCes »

If the 6561 is on socket I suggest to pull out the VIC, put a new socket over the old one, then reinsert the VIC chip: now you can put onto the chip a "thermal pad" that can be a thermal bridge between the VIC chip and the metallic shield cover that become a good heath exchanger

thermal pads examples
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

MCes wrote:If the 6561 is on socket I suggest to pull out the VIC, put a new socket over the old one, then reinsert the VIC chip.
That's a decent idea, I didn't think about that! I've ordered the copper and it reminds me of the early C64 so I'm going to stick with my method, but I imagine that could work well. I'll upload photos when it's done.

Here are some pictures of my heat sinks on the VIC-20, for reference:
IMG_0554.jpeg
IMG_0555.jpeg
IMG_0556.jpeg
They look decent in black!
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by orion70 »

Very nice, thank you! A good visual guide for what's worth doing inside our little friend. Possibly, it improves the VIC's internal aesthetics :)
One last question concerning adhesive vs thermal paste: what's better? I used the paste for my Plus/4, but it was a bit messy (tends to overflow from borders) and it took a long time before it dried out. I read it's better than adhesive as long as you spread it homogeneously, but how do I know I did it right? Retroleum kits just look easier to handle!
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by Mike »

I already wrote some time ago, that I consider heatsinks with the chips in the VIC-20 as rather useless. The thermal management is already taken care about by conducting excess heat away over the chip pins onto the ground planes. Witness the problems to desolder especially the VIC chip.

What kills the chips is not the heat, but possibly incomplete chip passivation (where creeping moisture lets them rot from the inside over the years), ESD onto ports, and defective PSUs.

... http://sleepingelephant.com/ipw-web/bul ... 0&start=12
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

Mike wrote:I already wrote some time ago, that I consider heatsinks with the chips in the VIC-20 as rather useless. The thermal management is already taken care about by conducting excess heat away over the chip pins onto the ground planes. Witness the problems to desolder especially the VIC chip.

What kills the chips is not the heat, but possibly incomplete chip passivation (where creeping moisture lets them rot from the inside over the years), ESD onto ports, and defective PSUs.

... http://sleepingelephant.com/ipw-web/bul ... 0&start=12
Hi Mike,

Thank you for your input, I appreciate your point-of-view as this is a forum for discussion. I also agree with you when you say that some of the prime chip-killers are moisture, ESD, and dodgey power supplies. However, from what I can tell it must go beyond this - once you have eliminated excess moisture through careful storage, removed almost all ESD through careful handling of the board and careful connection of peripherals, and eliminated the possibility of PSU failure by using a modern switching power supply, where else do you turn? Or will the board simply last forever?

Do we trust Commodore - who are renowned for their poor customer service, and even for installing electrolytic capacitors backwards on rushed production boards - to have been able to put systems in place to prevent their early machines from dying long-past not only the end of their useful service life, but also two decades past the death of their company? Or should we help them along as much as possible?

I've seen similar posts on lots of forums, and it seems like a topic that is discussed very frequently. I decided to look into it further before I started restoring and heat-sinking my Commodore computers. From what I can tell, integrated-circuits such as the ones produced by MOS in the 1980s are most prone to death by connections within them breaking over time - the actual semiconductor die is one of the most reliable areas, particularly because of the large fabrication processes used. These connections can be damaged by, amongst other things, thermal stress as I mentioned previously (i.e. the rapid heating or rapid cooling of the chip). Reducing the rate that the chip heats up, the maximum temperature that is reached, and the rate at which the chip cools reduces this thermal stress. As you said, this occurs naturally in a PCB as chips can exchange heat with the PCB, however once you have socketed a chip you reduce its ability to do so effectively. Also, this exchange can only occur through the pins of the IC, whereas I mentioned previously that the bulk of thermal generation occurs at the centre of the physical chip. Therefore, a heat sink mounted properly on top of the chip can achieve this more effectively and efficiently.

Granted, this is my opinion and everyone is entitled to their own. I have come to this conclusion based on trying to see things from both perspectives and reviewing as much data as I could read, and I am comfortable with it. I therefore don't believe it is healthy for people to discourage others from heat sinking chips when they are doing so based on perfectly valid reasoning. It isn't going to harm the chips, and if it does happen to have a positive impact (of which I'm certain it does) then surely it's definitely worth the effort? There aren't any drawbacks, so why not? Ray Carlsen does it, countless other builds I have seen have done it, and it looks really good :mrgreen:

That's my reasoning, so please don't turn this thread into yet another 'heat sinks are bad lol' discussion.
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

orion70 wrote:Very nice, thank you! A good visual guide for what's worth doing inside our little friend. Possibly, it improves the VIC's internal aesthetics :)
One last question concerning adhesive vs thermal paste: what's better? I used the paste for my Plus/4, but it was a bit messy (tends to overflow from borders) and it took a long time before it dried out. I read it's better than adhesive as long as you spread it homogeneously, but how do I know I did it right? Retroleum kits just look easier to handle!
No problem! I'm glad you like the pictures, and the Retroleum kits are really really good.

I can't imagine either would have a noticeable 'performance' advantage over the other when you're working with relatively low temperatures, so adhesive versus paste only really depends on whether you want to be able to easily remove the heat sink. It is possible to get adhesive off, but it's no small effort :wink: whereas as you mentioned paste is easy to get off but can be a bit messy. Paste never truly 'dries' unless it's very old or has been running very hot, so sinks can be knocked off with relative ease.

It's tricky (perhaps impossible) to get it spot-on. If the paste/adhesive overflows along the edges of the IC, you'll need to use less. I normally put a line down the centre of the chip (but not right up to the ends), place the sink on top, gently push it down, and wiggle it around in a small circular motion to remove any trapped air from underneath. The coverage doesn't have to be perfect, as long as the centre of the chip makes good contact with the sink. If anyone with more experience is reading, please feel free to correct me or add pointers :D

If you don't fancy using the liquid stuff, I've heard good things about 3M thermal tape/foam! The ones where it's just some sticky-back tape that goes between the chip and the heat sink, and you just cut it to size. I used it for some of my university projects. Might it be worth trying that out instead?

One thing I'd recommend when using thermal adhesive or tape/foam is to take pictures of the chips beforehand (so you know the manufacturer date and so on) and to be very careful so not to mix them up if you're swapping them around. Maybe put a sticker on the bottom of them, so you know what they are? Thermal adhesive is notoriously difficult to get off once it's set.

Hope this helps.
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by Mike »

Hi!
TheMightyMadman wrote:However, from what I can tell it must go beyond this - once you have eliminated [other failure modes], where else do you turn? Or will the board simply last forever?
A valid point. I must confess that - for myself - I can't really come up with a solid statistics. There's only one VIC-20 in my possession, the first one I got in 1983 and it still is working without any issues. Granted, it has got some hardware upgrades over the last years, but beyond that I never found myself in the situation to actually repair it. It's a VIC-20CR and all its chips were originally soldered in, so - as you say - it ensures proper cooling over the pins cf. the chips being socketed.
Reducing the rate that the chip heats up, the maximum temperature that is reached, and the rate at which the chip cools reduces this thermal stress.
I can agree with the first and third point, however can the maximum reachable temperature really be decreased unless you actually care for forced air cooling? Also, my concerns in the other thread mainly centered around that the added heat capacity near to the chip die then keeps the die warm over a longer period when the VIC already has been switched off again. Those effects presumably depend on the average power-up time nowadays, though.
That's my reasoning, so please don't turn this thread into yet another 'heat sinks are bad lol' discussion.
No worries. As long as people keep in mind, the heat sinks are not the 'cure-all' of things, but rather those other failure modes also need to be taken into account (and one can't do much about moisture creep sadly), then everything's okay. :)
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

Mike wrote: A valid point. I must confess that - for myself - I can't really come up with a solid statistics. There's only one VIC-20 in my possession, the first one I got in 1983 and it still is working without any issues. Granted, it has got some hardware upgrades over the last years, but beyond that I never found myself in the situation to actually repair it. It's a VIC-20CR and all its chips were originally soldered in, so - as you say - it ensures proper cooling over the pins cf. the chips being socketed.
You're right, it's very difficult to come up with solid statistics! The only method would be to run two new-old-stock chips from the same tube to death, one heat sinked and one not. And that would be barbaric :twisted:

I'm very glad your VIC is still working in its original condition! It sounds like it's been well looked after :D It's very rare to find one that hasn't been fettled with, as most of them seem to require repairs of some kind at some point. Especially if you've bought a used one more recently, as you can never tell its past. This one was dead-as-a-dodo, but only thanks to an inverter chip, a multiplexer chip, and the BASIC ROM. The BASIC ROM doesn't run as hot as the others chips and glue logic doesn't even run warm, so these must have been manufacturing flaws or something else.
Mike wrote: I can agree with the first and third point, however can the maximum reachable temperature really be decreased unless you actually care for forced air cooling? Also, my concerns in the other thread mainly centered around that the added heat capacity near to the chip die then keeps the die warm over a longer period when the VIC already has been switched off again. Those effects presumably depend on the average power-up time nowadays, though.
You're right, it's difficult without forced-air cooling from a fan or something similar, as static air cooling of the heat sink limits its effectiveness. Also, the effectiveness of the heat sinks depends on the environment the computer is used in (ambient temperature), and they are basically pointless if the cardboard RF shield is still present inside the case or the cooling vents are blocked.

However, I am under the impression that - even with only convection cooling - having the greater surface area of the heat sink to exchange heat with the cooling air does reduce the maximum temperature (it varies between sources, but I've seen hotter chips run up to 15C cooler with a statically cooled heat sink). The sheer volume of the heat sink seems to aid this, as it shares the thermal power from the chip and dissipates it across a greater mass, again helping to reduce the maximum temperature.
Mike wrote: No worries. As long as people keep in mind, the heat sinks are not the 'cure-all' of things, but rather those other failure modes also need to be taken into account (and one can't do much about moisture creep sadly), then everything's okay. :)
Absolutely! :D It's important that we are aware of all possible issues, and that we make sure to fix the most impending culpits such as old PSUs first. It's also very important to remember that there aren't any magic cures when it comes to old electronics, so if a chip's dead or dying, there's nothing you can do. We can only try to slow their deterioration, and this even applies to healthy chips.
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Re: Help Required for VIC-20 Colour-Block Screen

Post by TheMightyMadman »

Hi again,

My apologies for the slow reply, as my copper bar took a while to arrive from China. I've attached some pictures of my VIC chip heatsink.

The copper itself is a 3mm thick strip that I've fashioned into a ramp shape (originally I planned on a 'z', but I didn't realise how little room there was inside the RF shield box). The longer part of the ramp runs long the entire VIC chip and the smaller part attached to the shield box lid. The longer part is 5cm and the shorter part is 1.5cm, whilst the 'ramp' part is 1cm in length. I played around with the angle until it fits in the box as required.
IMG_0739.JPG
IMG_0740.JPG
IMG_0743.JPG
I've affixed the strip to the lid using thermal adhesive (temporarily Blu-tacked in place, as the copper is quite heavy) and it's going to dry overnight. I'll then put thermal paste on the VIC chip and install the RF shield.
Last edited by TheMightyMadman on Thu May 10, 2018 2:29 am, edited 2 times in total.
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